goldfish tank mates

Goldfish make vibrant additions to any aquarium, adding life and vibrancy to community tanks alike. However, selecting tank mates for goldfish can be challenging; however there are various species which will thrive alongside your goldfish without bullying it or nibbling its fins as this could cause serious injuries and infections in both. Tank mates should ideally share similar size ranges, tolerate cooler temperatures, and share similar daily habits as your goldfish; bristlenose plecos, zebra danios, rubber lip plecos and white cloud mountain minnows are popular choices among goldfish keepers.

hog-nosed brochis (Corydoras multiradiatus) makes for an excellent tankmate to goldfish. These peaceful bottom dwellers resemble an overgrown cory catfish and can grow to 4 inches long, though their thick bodies and spined pectoral and dorsal fins prevent them from fitting inside goldfish mouths as food sources. Like goldfish, hog-nosed brochis are great scavengers who help maintain an environment free from bacteria that threatens both cleanness and healthy conditions within an environment by cleaning themselves constantly cleaning out your tank of waste products - something goldfish don't do as effectively!

Platypus fish from the Xiphophorus genus make excellent tank mates for goldfish. With many color morphs and patterns to choose from, you are bound to find something to complement your goldfish's personality. Plus, their fast swimming allows them to outrace most goldfish attacks! When pairing platy and goldfish fish in one tank together, make sure there is ample hiding spaces within its boundaries to give both species safety when needed.

betta popeye

Popeye is a common condition among betta fish, though usually curable. If left untreated it could even lead to eye rot which could eventually kill your fish; but with proper treatment in a matter of days your betta should recover. There can be various causes of popeye including internal diseases, injuries and infections; most cases however are due to bacteria growth which can be avoided with regular tank hygiene measures - don't overstock your aquarium; remove decorations with sharp edges from decorations; quarantine new additions before adding them; clean regularly as soon as possible so as bacteria don't multiply and prevent popeye from happening!

symptoms of betta popeye include swelling or bulging in one or both eyes, lethargy, submissive behavior and disinterest in eating or socializing with tankmates. It's essential to recognize these symptoms so your betta receives appropriate medical treatment.

First step to treating betta popeye is identifying its source. This could be bacteria, parasites or fungal in nature and affect either one eye (unilateral betta popeye) or both (bilateral betta popeye).

Once you have identified the cause of your betta's Popeye, treatment can begin. If only one eye is affected, try giving an Epsom salt bath with one tablespoon per gallon of water in which to immerse your betta for 10-15 minutes at a time for several days to help them heal faster.

can fish see

Fish are well known to see color. We learn this in elementary school science classes or when watching David Attenborough documentaries; yet, is that true? Yes! Fish do indeed see colors, which influences their response to lures.

Evolution has enabled fish eyes to adapt well to their environment, adapting visually depending on habitat and light levels. For instance, species living in shallow waters with reduced turbidity usually possess sharper all-round colour vision.

To fully grasp why, we must explore how light travels through water. When sunlight strikes its surface and falls onto water bodies, most is reflected back and absorbed into the subterranean environment; once there it is attenuated through scattering and absorption processes. Red wavelengths with lower photon energy penetrate less deeply than their blue and violet counterparts - hence why red fishing line often seems to disappear into murky depths instead of simply turning grey over time as it travels through its column of travel.

Fish have evolved specialized rod cells to detect colors in order to compensate for their limited vision, providing maximum sensitivity in minimal lighting from both natural and bioluminescent sources. Furthermore, those living at greater depths have shed cone cells for these rods so as to detect movement or contrast even in darkness.

will betta eat shrimp

Have shrimps in your aquarium can be great because they provide essential nutrients for fish. Plus, adding plants around them creates an appealing balance in your tank! However, some bettas may get aggressive towards them or try to consume them, which may require segregating them immediately - it may be difficult to predict beforehand which personality your betta has though; you will only know for sure once introduced into the tank!

Good news is that providing you have the appropriate shrimp species, it should be fine to house betta fish with shrimp species such as cherry shrimp, ghost shrimp and Amanos; they tend to co-exist more easily as these varieties naturally hide from other fish and tend not to get eaten by bettas. These varieties also tend to do better if given plenty of hiding space within an aquarium environment.

These shrimps grow to large sizes that make them hard for betta fish to pick up with their mouths, providing excellent scavenging capabilities to help maintain clean waters in aquariums. You can buy these at pet stores or online, just be sure to acclimate them for at least 20 minutes in your aquarium water prior to adding them into the tank - keeping in groups of 2-4 is ideal; any less or more may cause water quality issues in the aquarium.

freshwater aquarium sharks

Freshwater aquarium sharks make great additions to any fish tank, though they require special care and feeding. As there are distinct differences among shark species in terms of size, temperament and lifespan - it is wise to do your research before purchasing one for your home aquarium.

Freshwater sharks in captivity tend to behave more like scavengers than hunters in their diets, eating both plant matter and animal flesh, but their primary food should consist of high-quality fish flakes, pellets, live black worms, brine shrimp, daphnia larvae, mosquito larvae and chopped fruit - so make sure these freshwater species get fed three times each day for best results.

Bala sharks are among the most beloved freshwater aquarium species, as they can reach 20 inches in the wild and 12 inches in captivity respectively. Balas are peaceful fish that should be kept in schools of three or more to ensure optimal conditions; any smaller creatures should not be housed together due to being faster fish themselves and potentially taking prey items as bait in captivity. They tend to avoid tank mates that may present risks like smaller species being kept together or being fed on by their tankmates; when something intrigues them they quickly zig zag to escape it before becoming prey themselves!

Freshwater sharks are generally omnivorous; their carp-like mouths help them harvest algae and detritus off underwater structures and consume small invertebrates and crustaceans. Because these animals produce so much waste, you will require an effective filtration system in order to keep ammonia and nitrate levels down.

Do Betta Fish Like Light? While betta fish require light for survival, they don't tend to take an interest in it like humans do. Instead, their bodies use it to replicate natural day/night cycles, helping keep colors vibrant while simulating natural rhythms of day-night cycles more accurately.

Bettas are diurnal fish and must follow a set daytime-night cycle in order to provide their bodies with cues when it's time for feeding and activities, yet also allow enough rest time in order to conserve energy for when it comes time to awake again.

That is why it is vital that you limit the length of time your tank lights are on and choose one designed specifically for fish tanks in order to avoid overpowering your betta with too much lighting. Furthermore, look for one which doesn't heat the tank water as this could cause overheating which may prove unhealthy for them.

LED or fluorescent lights are usually an excellent choice for lighting up a betta's tank. Both varieties offer gentle illumination that doesn't heat up its water, creating soft lighting which highlights your betta's colors without overstimulating her or him. To further minimize any risk of overstimulation, be sure to set your tank light's timer so it only turns on occasionally throughout the day.

Vampire crabs are fascinating creatures to care for and can provide hours of entertainment, but certain requirements must be fulfilled to care for them properly. Most often kept as aquarium decorations but can become engaging and educational hobbies in their own right.

Vampire crabs in their natural environment are scavengers, feeding on dead plant material as well as insects and crustaceans for sustenance. When kept as pets, vampire crabs should be provided a mixture of both meat- and plant-based food sources; since vampire crabs are nocturnal species it is recommended they are fed before bedtime.

An aquarium that accurately replicates their natural environment should be used, with an ideal ratio of 80% land and 20% water. The land portion should feature soft substrate, such as sphagnum moss or coconut coir; live plants suitable for climbing should also be added here, offering shelter and food. Likewise, water should be filtered and maintained at between 71-82 degrees Fahrenheit with a pH level of between 7.5 to 8.0 and an increased dGH between 6-10dGH; an humidifier should also ensures 75% humidity level for optimal conditions in this tank environment.

As any pet, vampire crabs may display aggression towards tank mates or their own kind. This behavior could be driven by competition or feeling threatened. Additionally, they can become susceptible to bacterial infections, fungal issues and parasites; though thanks to being inverts they are less prone to certain common fish diseases such as Ich.

Tropical fish aquarium fish are some of the most beloved home aquarium residents. Exotic in appearance and offering vibrant colours, tropical fish make an eye-catching focal point to any room in any home or workplace aquarium. With careful planning and preparation, tropical fish can make great pets in any household!

Betta fish (Betta splendens) are one of the most frequently seen tropical fish found in aquariums today. Highly resilient and adaptable to various water conditions, Bettas are ideal for beginners as their resilience makes them easy to maintain in any aquarium environment. Betta fish are fed a variety of foods like regular fish flake, live or frozen brine shrimp and daphnia; due to their natural defense mechanisms they're less vulnerable to diseases or parasites which might otherwise attack other freshwater breeds of fish species.

Zebra danio, Danio rerio is an exceptionally hardy tropical fish species to consider as part of your tropical aquarium, accommodating various water conditions from hard to soft, flowing to still and heated to unheated. Easy to feed crumbled fish flakes and insect larvae make feeding them simple - the minimum tank capacity needed for its care should be 45 cm (30 litres).

Neon tetras (Pacheirodon innesi) are one of the more sought-after tropical fish species found in many aquariums today. While these fish require larger tanks than most tropical varieties and may become territorial about food sources and territories, they thrive best when kept with other peaceful fish such as community tanks with external filters for optimal conditions and can become aggressive towards other fish; best kept with non-aggressive tankmates that cohabitate well together, such as those from another species (cichlids or similar); bottom feeders should receive diet of sinking foods such as pellets or flakes when feeding from other fish species (such as Cichlids or similar).

Ammonia can be extremely toxic to fish and cause disease and even death. Regular tank maintenance such as tank cleaning and water changes as well as creating the nitrogen cycle are designed to maintain safe levels, but when ammonia levels spike it must be addressed quickly in order to mitigate its harmful effects and stop further outbreaks of illness or mortality.

Change the Water

To start off, it is advisable to swap out about 50% of the water with fresh dechlorinated tap water, using a siphon tube to drain out and collect old water in a bucket, while slowly replacing it with new dechlorinated water via gradual pour-through of dechlorinator bottles or tap. While this won't directly remove ammonia, it will give you time while you consider how best to proceed.

Check for sources of ammonia build-up such as uneaten food or dead plant matter that might be contributing, and remove it promptly. Altering pH can also make water less ammonia-friendly - though this won't eliminate ammonia completely, it should make it less hazardous and more soluble over time.

Add Dry Rock

Consider adding dry lava rock or another substrate material such as gravel to your fish tank in order to reduce ammonia levels by increasing surface area and encouraging bacteria that already live in your gravel to colonize it further. While this won't provide as effective filtration on a budget, adding extra biological filtering could provide benefits of its own.

Ammonia-removal products, commonly available at pet stores or online, may also help. While they won't actually get rid of all ammonia from your fish's environment, these temporary solutions should help make life safer for your fish. When used alongside other measures to address the cause, such as changing feeding practices.

Peacock Cichlid (Aulonocara) fishes are among the most beloved freshwater aquarium species. Not only are they popular and visually striking; their vibrant hues hail from Africa's Lake Malawi where they reach lengths between 4 - 6 inches. Their bodies feature long bodies with vertical stripes in any range of colors including blues, oranges, reds, yellows, greys, blacks and whites to name just some!

Female and juvenile Peacock Cichlids may appear dull in coloration, but males are what have earned these fish their name as Peacocks. With age comes vibrant and iridescent hues of blue, yellow, red and orange that simply dazzle.

These hardy fish from Lake Malawi are an excellent addition to the home aquarium and will live for years with proper care and attention. While they can cohabit peacefully with other medium-sized, nonaggressive cichlids, they prefer tanks with slightly basic pH conditions for best results. In nature they are territorial and aggressive toward others in their species but this behavior can be controlled within an aquarium environment with appropriate handling and attention.

Peacock Cichlids are insectivores that feed by searching the substrate for insects, such as worms and insects. Their diet should include quality pellets, flakes, wafers and freeze-dried bloodworms or brine shrimp - they even enjoy being mouth brooders! Female Peacock cichlids will collect fertilized eggs from male Peacock cichlids before incubating them until hatching occurs in her modified throat pouch until hatching occurs.

Many fish prefer sleeping at the bottom of their tank at night, especially those which have been active during the day and require rest periods during their rest cycles. Older fish also seem to enjoy resting there as they become less active.

Fish are known to frequent the bottom of an aquarium to sift through its substrate in search of any food particles that have settled there, often making an appearance at feeding time. Depending on their species, this activity can be quite natural.

Fish that have fallen sick and are lying at the bottom of their aquarium could be suffering from parasites or disease. Carefully observe them, looking out for symptoms like lack of appetite, frantic gills/fins and an overall bloated appearance. In this instance, it would be beneficial to treat with frozen peas which act as natural laxatives as well as aquarium salt and Furan 2.

Another likely explanation for why fish may be laying at the bottom of their aquariums is they feel overwhelmed and stressed due to changes in temperature or overcrowding - or having been transported from a pet store or other source to their new environment.

When this occurs, the best course of action is to reduce the number of fish in your aquarium and ensure those left are compatible with each other. Furthermore, try rotating its decor every few weeks to create an engaging and stimulating environment for your fish to enjoy.

Cleanliness in an aquarium is crucial to keeping its inhabitants healthy. Without routine poop removal, ammonia levels could build up quickly, creating an unsafe environment for its fish inhabitants and others who live there. Many aquarists turn to "poop-eating fish" for assistance with this task - however is this really possible?

Truth be told, certain species of freshwater omnivorous freshwater fish and invertebrates like snails and shrimps will consume biological waste produced by other tank residents; this practice is known as coprophagia - eating excrement. While feces contain some nutrition compared to food sources; their consumption must only occur once all important vitamins and nutrients have been extracted by an organism from it before being expelled by its body.

Fish waste tends to sink to the substrate, making it hard for its eaters to reach and consume it. When fish poop does float in your aquarium, this may indicate illness or stress and should be dealt with immediately. Since no fish species is specifically designed to consume its waste on an ongoing basis, the best way to get rid of fish poop is through regular gravel vacuuming, increasing and optimizing water flow rates, and adding live plants which absorb excess nutrients.